|
Gwen’s Healing Garden |
The #1 Web Site
Gardening For The Soil
Gardening For The Soul
Articles For The Soil | Articles For The Soul | Herbs, Uses & Recipes | Plants, Food Colours & Recipes | Quotes | Newsletter
Did You Know | Environmentally Friendly Gardening Products | Non-toxic Cleaning Products | Indoor Gardening With Foliage Plants
Hints & Tips
| Recipes | Ask Gwen | Books | E-books | Free Articles For E-zines And Web Sites | Biography
Contact Us | Links | Link To Us
Subscribe to the FREE monthly
GHG Newsletter and receive free the E-book A Book Of Quotes: Subscribe here
|
|
Planting And Caring For Flower Bulbs By Michael McGroarty There
is nothing quite as welcome as those beautiful spring flowers that seem to
emerge from nowhere to welcome the arrival of spring. Bulb type flowers are
really unique plants, because they spend most of their days resting quietly
beneath the surface of the soil. Then right on schedule, up they come, full
of bloom and vigor, and then almost as fast as they came, they go. Except for
the green leafy part of the plant that tends to linger longer than we would
like them to. Despite
their short bloom time and unattractive foliage after the blooms are gone,
they are still a wonderful addition to any landscape. But how should you care
for them? First let’s talk about how to use them in your landscape. Flowers
of all kinds are best when planted in groupings. Many people buy 25 or 50
bulbs and just go around the yard planting helter skelter. That’s fine if
that’s what you want, but when planted that way they tend to blend in with
the landscape and really don’t show up well at all. When you plant them in
large groups they are a breathtaking showpiece. In the early spring start
thinking about where you would like to create a bed for flower bulbs. Prepare
the bed by raising it with good rich topsoil, and if at all possible add some
well composted cow manure. Do this in the spring while you are in the
gardening mood; you may not be in the fall. Over the summer fill the bed with
annual flowers to keep the weeds down, and to pretty up your yard for the
summer. Come fall all you have to do is pull out the annuals and plant your
bulbs to the depth recommended on the package. If you think you could have a
problem with squirrels digging up the bulbs and eating them, you can also
wrap the bulbs in steel wool, leaving just the tip of the bulb exposed so it
can grow out of the little wire cage you’ve created. Or you can just plant
the bulbs and then cover the bed with chicken wire or plastic fencing until
the bulbs start to grow in the spring. When the bulbs come up in the
spring and start blooming, you should clip off the blooms as they start to
wither. This keeps the bulb from producing seeds, which requires a lot of
energy, and you want the bulb to use all of its available energy to store
food in preparation for the bulb’s resting period. Once the bulbs are
completely done blooming you don’t want to cut off the tops until they are
withered and die back. The million dollar question is how to treat the tops
until that happens. Many people bend them over and
slip a rubber band over them, or in the case of bulbs like Daffodils tie them
with one of the long leaves. This seems to work because it is a very common
practice among many experienced gardeners. However, Mike is about to rain on
the parade. I strongly disagree with this theory
because back about 6th grade we learned about photosynthesis in science
class. To recap what we learned, and without going into the boring details,
photosynthesis is the process of the plant using the sun’s rays to make food
for itself. The rays from the sun are absorbed by the foliage and the food
making process begins. In the case of a flower bulb this food is transported
to the bulb beneath the ground and stored for later use. So basically the leaves of the
plant are like little solar panels. Their job is to absorb the rays from the
sun to begin the process known as photosynthesis. If we fold them over and
handcuff them with their hands behind their back, they are not going to be
able to do their job. It’s like throwing a tarpaulin over 80% of a solar
panel. In order for the leaves to
absorb the rays from the sun, the surface of the foliage has to be exposed to
the sun. On top of that, when you bend the foliage over, you are restricting
the flow of nutrients to the bulb. The veins in the leaves and the stem are a
lot like our blood vessels. If you restrict them the flow stops. You decide. I’ve presented my
case. Bending them over seems to work, but I’ve spent a lot of money on my
bulbs. I want them running at full speed. What I do is clip the blooms off
once they are spent, and just leave the tops alone until they are yellow and
wilted. If they are still not wilted when it’s time to plant my annual
flowers, I just plant the annuals in between the bulbs. As the bulbs die back
the annuals tend to grow and conceal them. If one shows through I clip it
off. It seems to work well for me. _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Copyright
by Michael J. McGroarty Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. |
|
For more information or questions about material on this site contact www.gwenshealinggarden.ca/Contact_Form.htm
Copyright © Gwen Nyhus Stewart B.S.W., M.G.,
H.T. All Rights Reserved
Worldwide